Key collector’s tool kit: Dish soap, Goo Gone and lots & lots of elbow grease …
July 20, 2011adminbugs, CW keys, ebayComments Off on Key collector’s tool kit: Dish soap, Goo Gone and lots & lots of elbow grease …
Wednesday, July 20, 2011 — Yesterday I decided — after that Speed-X Model 500 bug cleaned up so well — to use the same method on my 1951 Vibroplex Original Deluxe I received last week: Dish soap and hot water.
I don’t recall which collector recommends it, but one of the “big dogs” said that hot, soapy dishwater was more gentle on a key than chemical cleaners and less likely to damage any of the surfaces or components. Now I don’t expect that 409 spray cleaner will disolve a key, but using it (along with elbow grease) might remove the gold pinstriping off a pre-1940 Vibroplex key base or other detail.
The test subject was my 1951 Vibroplex Original DeLuxe, SN 173,560. This key arrived last week upside down in its original carrying case. The key was something of a question mark, too — the seller had lots of photographs of the key with the listing, but none of them really showed the condition of the key.
The key’s base also had what appeared to be masking tape — very old masking tape — stuck on the front edge and down at least one side of the base. The seller said the key was in good shape, but what was under the tape?? Rust? Missing chrome?? No way to determine that … so I took a chance.
Frankly, at the price level of this key, I took a bigger chance that I care to take. But again, if I had to part the thing out, I was still money ahead — though I was gambling the key would be as nice as described. It wasn’t until about 2 this morning that I knew if my gamble paid off.
DISASSEMBLY. On closer inspection, the masking tape was ancient, and had been in place for many years — and had dried and hardened into a thin shell of a rock-like veneer. A sharp knife would have scraped it off, but how do you do so without risking damage to the chrome base? I decided to disassemble the key.
The key properly inserted in its case. Note the padded block insert in the lower part of the door. This block captures the base of the key and keeps it secure. It's a very good system that's stood the test of time (and clumsy key owners like yours truly!).
The pivot frame and lever arm were in beautiful shape, so I removed the pivot frame as a unit, leaving the lever in its pivots. I removed the dot and dash posts, the damper and the terminals, leaving the base with just the nameplate. From my shack, I took the base to the kitchen sink and made a very hot, soapy mixture of Dawn dishwashing soap and hot water. The base soaked in hot water for about an hour.
SLOW PROCESS. The ancient masking tape was nearly waterproof, the hot, soapy water barely affected it. I took my sharpest steak knife and very carefully peeled off the outer layer of tape, leaving the inner paper and the petrified stick-um. With that done, I let it soak some more. Slowly the ancient tape goo softened.
The stuff was still stubborn; it took a lot of gentle scrubbing to make headway, and all I did was get down to the stick-um; I dried the base and brought in the big guns — better living through chemistry, I always say!
Goo Gone is an effective tool against sticky stuff like this, and with a liberal application of the stuff, it dissolved the stick-um … in time, LOTS of time. The key had tape and tape residue around more than half of the edge of the base, so it took time to clean, but the Goo Gone did the trick. Once that was done, I broke out the Flitz metal polish and went to work on the base and other parts. The base needed polishing, but other parts really didn’t — but the base cleaned up well.
The base is not perfect, but it is very good for a 60-year-old key. There are wear marks where the circuit closer pivoted — the circuit closer was removed some years ago it seems. Beyond that, the base is excellent! If I could install a circuit closer, no one would know the difference.
REASSEMBLY & FINAL TESTING. One of my favorite parts of processing a new key in my collection is getting it adjusted and making it ready to put on the air. First I had to put the thing back together, which didn’t take too long. Once assembled and polished, it looked as good as a new one. Testing the key was sweet, too — it plays just as nice as a new Original DeLuxe. Judging by the lack of dirt and grime on the finger pieces, I’m guessing the key saw some steady use, but not over its entire lifespan.
The case the key came in is in great condition, though it has its share of exterior scrapes. The leather handle is not dry rotted away, and is still sturdy. The interior is intact and original, and has protected the key well for six decades. I have packed the key back in the case, with the original Vibroplex wedge cord that came with it. While I can’t enjoy its chrome-plated sparkle while in the case, it certainly is the safest place to keep it.
EBAY OBSERVATIONS. The last few weeks there’s been a glut of semi-automatic keys for sale on eBay. For example, a near-mint 1952 Vibroplex Original standard with its case sold for $45 — the case alone often will sell for that much. Also saw a really nice Vibroplex Original DeLuxe for $65, and a 1922 Vibroplex Original for $48.
I also missed a 1938 McElroy Mac Key for $50 — which was an excellent deal. Oh well, I can’t buy every key I see, but of the ones I’ve mentioned, the Mac Key would probably have been the one I would have nabbed, but the point is moot. But there’ll always be more keys.